Jonathan blazed into one of the largest cities in the world without a detailed plan, but with a wellspring of undaunted determination. He flew solo his first night and wasted no time, making his way around in cabs to his hotel and to Khan el-Khalili market. The challenge of completing even a single cab ride in a city this size, with cab drivers who don't speak your language but who have mastered the art of scamming foreigners, is a triumph unto itself. And to continue onward and brave one of the oldest, most disorienting souks in the world? On your own?! Well... hats off to you, Jonathan.
In the few days that followed, Justin and/or I joined Jonathan on trips to the Museum of Islamic Art, Khan el-Khalili, and al-Fishawy Cafe. The Museum of Islamic Art is my kind of museum. Usually, I feel some sort of weird social pressure to absorb the extensive information that accompanies exhibits in American museums. Here in Cairo, and I recall this was the case in India as well, the background and descriptions provided are short and sweet. As someone who spends lots of dreamy time in her own head, I really appreciated this approach. Observe, imagine, and wonder. This museum is chock full of woodwork and ceramic, glass, and textile artifacts. All the pieces are so geometric in their design that it's a great place to sit and sketch, if that strikes your fancy.
To visit Khan el-Khalili is to experience sudden and overwhelming stimulation of all senses... and then some. It is an utter labyrinth dripping in brass antiques, brass junk, rainbows of textiles and jewelry, ribbons of shisha smoke, tea and coffeeshops, spices beyond compare, and more than everything in between. The souk dates back to 1382 and spreads out horizontally in some areas, but more often towers above encasing you in it's looming maze of alleyways. We visited the market at night, which made for a hypnotizing evening that twinkled in the shine of so many goods and wares.
Al-Fishawy Cafe rests in the heart of Khan el-Khalili and translates to 'cafe of mirrors'. A perfect comparison, as the whole area is so winding and alive that I swear you'd disappear if you dared to blink. Al-Fishawy was a frequent hangout of Nobel Prize winning author Naguib Mahfouz, and offers mystifying charm. The three of us camped out in the cafe past midnight after wandering the serpentine streets of the old souk. We drank tea, ate falafel and tahini, and enjoyed the unexpected live serenade of an oud player.
Jonathan's appetite for experiencing and understanding other cultures is as genuine as spring rain and entirely contagious. It's been a long time since I've met someone with such an endearingly curious and inquisitive nature. I had no idea what a good time we'd all end up having together and am really thankful he shared his zest for the outside world with us. Thank you, Jonathan! You have set the bar high for all future visitors. :)
Check out the albums from some of our adventures! Justin's eye strikes again! Peruse when you have a minute, as the photos are many and all quite stunning.
Antiquing
Our Trip to Khan al-Khalili and al-Fishawy
The Islamic Museum
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